DARK DAYS FOR EUROPE'S TEXTILE RECYCLERS
Europe's
textile recycling sector employs some 150.000 people, recycles between three
and four million tonnes of material each year and handles goods with a value
of approximately Euro 3.000 million. Nevertheless, the sector is struggling
to cover costs on many of its operations and is beset with problems, including
a decline in the overall quality of incoming material, payment difficulties
and increasing competition, it was stated in Brussels. Michael Sigloch of
VTB GmbH in Germany suggested that the textile recycling sector stood "on
the verge of collapse" because of the diminishing quality of its supplies
and difficulties in marketing goods because of their association with "waste".
"Bank accounts are empty and jobs are in danger," he told delegates.
"We recycle large volumes of material but we are still waiting for
some thanks from society for our efforts."According to the speaker,
processing costs in Eastern Europe were up to 80% lower while religious/charity
organisations are benefitting from volunteer labour and are able to market
their production as "relief goods", thereby avoiding export controls.
According to BIR Textiles Division President Frithjof Schepke of FWS GmbH,
Germany the aim of the textile recycling industry was not to attack charity
groups but to ensure that commercial recycler were protected against subsidised
operations. At the same time, he added:"The textile recycling industry
in Europe is at a clear compettitive disadvantage."
Having heard Seddik Zerroug of French firm Framimex highlight the need for
the textile recycling sector to increase its public profile, Klaus Löwer
of Hans Löwer Recycling GmbH in Germany complained that European graders
enjoyed far less political support than their counterparts in the USA. He
also expressed concern that textile recycling activities were gravitating
towards low-wage countries. Pointing to price falls of 25-30%, Joan Smaal
of Joan Smaal Textiel recycling BV in The Netherlands noted a gradual decline
in the quality of originals over recent years. Competition from the U.S.
was also a significant problem while Africanqualities were currently experiencing
a dearth of demand, he added.Mr Smaal suggested the survival of Europe's
graders was under threat if there was no major change in its circumstances
and if their cost base remained so much higher than those of competing regions
of the world. The report from Stefaan Rubbens of Evadam NV in Belgium suggested
that hopes for a market pick-up in september had been dashed in October.
There had been a reduction in the purchasing power of African nations and
'strong competition' from new clothing,particularly from China. Given the
'considerable' decline in the overall quality of original this year, "we
haveto enlarge the margin to continue to survive", he said.
Alexander Gläser, Executive Director of the German federation Fachverband
Textil-Recycling e V, described European waste legislation as 'entirely
counter-productive' for textile recyclers, adding that it was 'absolutely
essenttial' for customs codes and legislation relating to textile recycling
to be 'thoroughly reformed'. He added:" The European Waste Directive
is coming into disrepute -it has created unimaginable barries."
Mr Gläser went on to highlight the 'unacceptable behaviour' of some
of those countries currently looking to join the EuropeanUnion. Poland,
for example, had imposed its own licensing system which was preventing competition.
In the African market, meanwhile, the U.S. had concluded agreements with
a number of countries relating to the financing of exports. Europe had to
consider similar measures to ensure the African market remained open, he
said.
Mr. Gläser pointed out that church and charity organisations did not
have to pay some of their workers,resulting in a 'distortion' of competition.
"In my view," he added, "this is a clear infraction of the
EC treaty." The guest speaker concludedd with a breakdown of the estimated
3.5 million tonnes of textiles recycled in Europe each year. Mr Gläser
believed that this total comprised: 45% second-hand clothing, 20% wiping
rags, 25% textile raw material, and 10% materials for filling, insulation
etc. Some 30% of the used clothing went to Eastern Europe, 25% to Africa
and 20% remained in Western Europe
.